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I also suspect that some of the DC-in boards you can get may be counterfeit, and may not hold up as well as the original factory boards, although who can say, as it was the factory board that messed up in the first place. For details, please refer to the labels of various manufacturers. What we need to pay attention is that the corresponding USB-C charger needs to support 60W output. But once you get to an indicated 100%, everything can seem fine, until you momentarily disconnect the Magsafe, and suddenly it says you’re down to an 80% charge again. The 15-inch Macbook Pro is originally equipped with 87W power, but after connecting this 60W adapter cable, it can also be charged with 60W, but the speed is slightly reduced. ![]() The closer you get to a 100% charge, the cooler the Magsafe will run. orGet USB C Charger, Keymox 100W 4-Port Desktop Type C Charging Station. Holding an ice cube on the Magsafe can be an emergency measure if you have the patience for it. Shop macbook pro charger adapter at, Adapter Power Charger for. For the time being that is, until they start looking cooked, and the plastic starts melting around the pins. Where exactly the heat comes from in this situation is hard to say, I suspect the input board is no longer properly regulating the rate at which the power is fed into the computer, as I’ve had this same problem when all the pins and contacts look perfectly clean and bright. ![]() Weird activity with the charging icon is what ultimately tells the tale in my experience. Having to wiggle the Magsafe to get it to charge is also a bad sign, and logically would seem to indicate that the problem is mechanical, but you may still need a DC-in board even if all the visible parts look secure. Also you can have a situation where the green light lites up, but doesn’t want to switch to orange. For example, the icon will say you have a 70% charge, but when you momentarily unplug the Magsafe, oops, now it says you have a 45% charge, indicating that something is going on with the board, and it’s simply not sending the proper information to the rest of the computer anymore. ![]() I believe the way to tell if it’s the board is when your battery power icon starts acting up. I certainly recommend trying all of the easy fixes, but I’ve had this problem several times on my mid-2012 15” Pro, and each time it was the DC-in board. |